Cooking in Quantity

I really don't know what this poster in the school cafeteria was about. My supervisor didn't know, either. Something tells me I really don't want to know. Yum-o, I say. Yum. O.

The syllabus was all about stock and sauces, but we also needed to cook for PTA parent-teacher conferences tomorrow. Rather than be capped at 3 hours, we took 4 and a half to get it all done.

We started with a short lecture about mother sauces and the danger zone. The danger zone is 60 through 140 degrees -- the zone where bacteria will grow and multiply if given the three elements it needs: protein for food, moisture for environment, and low acidity. Stock has all three.

Bechamel, veloute, espagnol, tomato, hollandaise -- today we were making bechamel -- warm milk thickened with a roux. Roux is equal parts fat and flour, whisked while cooked to turn it into a paste. The darker it goes, the bigger flavor it'll have. This would be the base of our Mac n' Cheese....

MACARONI & CHEESE

Yield: 30 servings

Elbow macaroni 5 lbs
Butter 1 ½ cups
Flour 1 ½ cups
Whole milk 1 ¼ gallon
Salt & pepper to taste
Worcestershire sauce to taste
Cheddar, cubed 1 ½ lb
Mozzarella, cubed 1 ½ lb
Monterrey jack, cubed 1 ½ lb

1. Preheat oven to 350˚. Warm milk, but do not boil. Grease 4 large hotel pans. Bring enough salted water to a boil. Add pasta, cook until very al dente – 2 minutes shorter than package suggestion.
2. Melt butter and stir in flour to make a roux. Whisk in warm milk a ladle at a time to make white sauce. BTB RTS. Salt and pepper to taste.
3. Remove sauce from heat, stir in three cheeses. Combine with pasta and stir well. Pour into baking dishes.
4. Bake 45-60 minutes, or until top is desired crispiness. Rest 20 minutes before serving.

I had the kids taste the cheese sauce before and after adding salt and Worcestershire, really bringing home the importance of NEVER forgetting seasoning.

This was my own recipe -- the syllabus had a horrible recipe involving mustard powder. The teacher who lead this program the last two cycles stopped by and ate with us, and confided that the first time she taught this program, she stuck closely to the syllabus and all the kids pretty much were grossed out by the mac n' cheese. This recipe is pretty solid, except this was the first time I was using the ovens in this kitchen -- they ran hot, and they ran uneven. The final product was a little over-done, but still very edible, very rich and decadent, if not as loose as I would of liked.

Before class, I got chicken stock on the fire. We just had too much to do and this is a 4 hour affair, and I got whole chickens that had to be broken down without fuss or drama.

CHICKEN STOCK

Yield: 1 gallon

Chicken bones 8 lbs
Cold water 1 gallon
Salt 2 tsp
Mire poix, medium dice 1 lb
Sachet d’Epices 1 each

1. Rinse bones, place in stockpot, add water and salt.
2. BTB RTS
3. Simmer 2-3 hours
4. Add mire poix and sachet, continue to simmer 1 more hour, skimming scum as necessary
5. Strain. Use immediately (degrease by skimming if necessary) or rapidly cool and store for later use.

The mac n' cheese was done in one huge batch broken into three hotel pans. Once into the oven, I demoed the brownie recipe. One kid asked why we didn't use a double-boiler to melt the chocolate -- an excellent question. Because we were melting it with butter, it was protected by the water content in that fat. As long as we didn't boil it, we were safe over an open flame.

FUDGE BROWNIES

Yield: 12 servings

Butter 1 cup
Unsweetened chocolate 4 oz
White cane sugar 2 cup
Eggs 4 each
Vanilla extract* 1 tsp
Salt ½ tsp

1. Preheat oven to 350˚. Grease a 9x13 baking pan
2. In a 3-quart saucepan, met butter and chocolate over low heat, stirring constantly until fully melted and incorporated.
3. Remove for heat, stir in sugar. Allow to cool slightly.
4. Beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each.
5. Add vanilla and salt, stir well.
6. Fold in flour, mix minimally. Spread batter into pan.
7. Bake 30-35 minutes. Brownies are done when toothpick is inserted into center and comes out clean. Cool in pan on wire rack.

*Can be replaced by scrapings of 1/2 vanilla bean

Since there is only four burners that are accessible at once, we broke into four teams and they made the brownies, with me looking over and giving guidance as we went. Soon enough, five trays of brownies joined the mac n' cheese in the oven.

Two students took on the Caesar Salad, and four students got to work on the green salad. The Caesar was pretty straight forward. First step was making the croutons...

CROUTONS

Yield: 1 lb

White bread 1 lb
Butter, melted 4 oz, or as needed
Salt 1 tsp, or as needed
Black pepper, ground ½ tsp (optional), or as needed

1. Remove the crust from the bread if desired. Slice and cube the bread into desired size. If bread is fresh, dry out cubes in over for 5 minutes before continuing.
2. Toss the bread, fat and season together on a sheet or hotel pan.
3. Bake at 450˚ until lightly golden, 8 to 10 minutes

The great thing about this was that it was super simple, and the end result was INSANELY better than the crap you buy in a box, industrial croutons that are designed to be shelf-stable forever and taste like weird chemicals. The student who I was directing to flip and stir the croutons said she really did not like croutons. I picked one up and put it in her mouth by hand, and I could see the lights turn on in her eyes. THIS is why we cook from scratch and not buy a box. Sure, it's cheaper, but the real reason is that it is so much better. Rather than an industrial interpretation of what a crouton is, here she had the REAL thing for the first time, just as they were made when they were invented. True dat. Hollah.

CAESAR SALAD WITH CHICKEN

Yield: 10 appetizer servings

Romaine lettuce, chopped 1 lb
Croutons 12 oz
Sliced chicken breast 25 oz

Garlic. minced 1 tsp
Anchovy fillets 5
Salt ¾ tsp, or as needed
Black pepper, ground ½ tsp
Egg yolks 2
Lemon juice 2oz
Olive oil 10 floz
Parmesan, finely grated 6 oz, or as needed

1. Separate romaine leaved. Clean and dry thoroughly. Tear or cut into pieces. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
2. Prepare croutons and hold at room temperature until ready to serve
3. To prepare dressing, mash together garlic, anchovies, salt and pepper in a bowl to form a relatively smooth paste. Add egg and lemon juice and blend well. Gradually add olive oil, whisking as it is added to form a thick emulsion. Stir in Parmesan. Adjust with salt and pepper as necessary.
4. Pan-sear chicken right before service. Slice when rested.
5. For each serving, combine 2 oz greens with 1 floz dressing, tossing gently until evenly coated. Garnish with a few croutons. Top with 2.5 oz sliced chicken.

The dressing's key is to mash the anchovies and garlic until it is homogeneous (a word I had to define for my student, which was cute!) before making the emulsion. Because of a student allergic to seafood, we had to serve the salad with the dressing on the side.

The other four got to work on the tossed salad for the meeting tomorrow. A lot of knife skills involved here, and I demoed how I wanted each element. I had them peel the celery, just like my wife likes....

SIMPLE GREEN TOSSED SALAD

Yield: 20 servings

Boston lettuce, chopped 3 head
Romaine lettuce, chopped 3 head
Carrots, peeled, rounds 2 lb
Cucumbers, peeled, sliced, quartered 4 each
Red onion, diced 2 each
Red peppers, diced 2 each
Celery, peeled, sliced 1 head
Simple red wine vinaigrette 2 cup

1. Toss all vegetables together in a large bowl.
2. When ready to serve, pour vinaigrette over, toss, serve immediately

We made the vinaigrette almost as an afterthought, and the student muffed it, with too little seasoning....

SIMPLE RED WINE VINAIGRETTE

Yield: 2 cups

Red wine vinegar 4 oz
Dijon mustard 1 tsp
Olive oil 2 lb
Salt to taste
Pepper to taste
Sugar to taste

1. Combine vinegar and mustard in an anchored bowl.
2. Whisk in oil gradually.
3. Season with salt, pepper and sugar.

We didn't have time to muck around with it, but will remake it tomorrow when we prep for the event.

The class ended with the four burners given over to saute pans. I demoed how to butterfly a chicken breast by cutting it length wise but leaving the two halves attached, so it could be opened like a book. Uncut, the cutlets would be too thick to cook all the way through and would have to be finished in the oven, which we just did not have time for.

SAUTEED CHICKEN BREAST

Yield: 1 serving

Chicken breast, boneless, skinless 1 each
Salt to taste
Pepper to taste
Vegetable oil ½ floz

1. Season chicken cutlet with salt and pepper
2. Heat sauté pan over medium-high heat, then add oil
3. Saute cutlet for 2-3 minutes per side or until done.
4. Rest ½ the time of cooking before serving or slicing.

The magic moment is when you turn the meat over and everyone sees the browning. A typical home cook will keep on moving the meat and no browning happens. It's a sexy "ooo" moment. Every one cooked at least one breast, and another student sliced the meat, to which I had to hold her up as to not cut unrested meat.

I dashed out a bit of whipped cream to go with the brownies as the kids cleaned up.

WHIPPED CREAM

Yield: 16 servings

Heavy cream 1 cup
Vanilla extract* 1 tsp
Confectioners sugar 1 tbsp

1. In a large bowl or mixer with whip attachment, whip cream until stiff peaks are just about to form.
2. Beat in vanilla and sugar until peaks form. Make sure not to over beat, cream will then become lumpy and butter-like.

*Can be replaced by scrapings of 1/2 vanilla bean

We sat, ate with the supervisor and last year's teacher, and everyone seemed pretty happy with the food. I didn't like the over-doneness of the baked goods, but in the end, every one dug it so I didn't want to disrespect the student's efforts. Just because I'm hard on my own cooking doesn't mean I should be a spoilsport. Tomorrow we reconvene to make sandwiches, dress the salad, reheat the baked goods, plate the food and try to impress the parents...

Pork and Poultry Fabrication

Today's class was again up in a kitchen, with Chef Ted fabricating a side of pork and a few birds. This would be pretty exciting to see this demonstration, except for the fact I spent a few weeks fabricating pork and poultry first hand in c-arts. Watching some one else do it, and talk about it, is, well, unsatisfying. I did like Ted's brief lecture. It seems there are three general classes of pork in the U.S.: Western, Southern and "Metropolitan" or "Swirl", which are defined by where they are raised and the feed they are given. Western pork get a diet that is composed around chestnuts and apples, while Southern centers on peanuts and soy. "Metropolitan" tends to be raised outside of cities, and are primarily fed....denatured food garbage. Mmmm. Because pigs can pop out of a litter of 50-60 piglets every 6 months, pork has always been cheaper than other meats. Too bad about that kosher/halal business.

Poultry (Chicken Bondage)

I haven't eaten much chicken in recent years. It kind of tastes boring and neutral, and more often than not is overcooked. While a lot of people's default meat-choice is chicken, I'll always go for either pork or an interesting vegetarian option. However, in the classroom of culinary school, you don't choose from a menu. Today was our introduction to poultry.

In the lecture, Chef M said that inspection of all poultry by the USDA before and after butchering is "mandatory," but because the millions of birds dispatched by only a handful of very large corporations, chances of the chicken on your plate having actually been inspected by a government representative is slim to none. Unlike grading for beef, chicken-grading is not only voluntary, but based solely on appearance (bruising, tears), not on quality or safety.

We reviewed chicken types, from tiny baby Poussins (known in the U.S. as 'Cornish Game Hens' -- I guess 'baby chicken' would be T.M.I. for some folk) to big old Hens, whose egg-laying careers are behind them, leaving their tough meat best suited for stew and pet food.

Turkeys and ducks crossed our radar. Most duck served is the Long Island (Peking) duck, but for foie gras, this one is bred with a Muscovy duck to make a Moulard duck (French for 'mule'). The Moulard is sterile, and when fed by a tube until it has gout, produces a huge fatty liver and a huge thick fatty breast and leg. Geese are actually the preferred animal in France to make foie gras, but are a protected species in the U.S.

The knives came out, some time was spent chopping and dicing vegetables and potatoes, and then every one was given a chicken. Cold, pale, headless, plucked. Unlike yesterday's lobster in which the butchering and gutting was done in-house, Federal and NYC sanitation codes prevented us from doing the same to the chiken. I almost wished we could so I could feel more connected with this thing that we were going to eat in a few hours. That is, only if we used a knife or a tool to kill the chicken -- killing a chicken with my bare hands would of been a bit much.

Our first task was to truss the chicken to make it fit for roasting (trussing the bird helps create an even density throughout for even cooking). Oddly enough, after cutting off the wings and putting it into bondage, it somehow looked more like the idea of "chicken."

After untrussing, we removed the thighs and backbone, then removed the breasts with the wing bone attached (but rib cage removed.) Using the paring knife, meat around the wing bone was stripped away for a formal 'Frenched' look. Using the heal of the chef's knife, I cut off the knobby end of the bone. Watching the bone bleed, after a relatively bloodless session, made me queasy for a split second.

Fabricate one bird, you fabricated them all. We broke down ducks, in the same style of the chickens. The ducks were larger, the bones more substantial, and the meat darker and redder. Unlike the chickens, the ducks came with all the organs and neck stuffed in the body cavity.

During clean-up, the Chef chose me to make the mashed potatoes to accompany the chicken and duck he was roasting in the convection ovens. (He had a huge pot of potato trimmings we chopped up earlier already on boil.) He set me to melt a pound of butter with a pint of heavy cream while he demonstrated the curing of duck to make Duck Confit for tomorrow. While I was digging around for a fork to see if the potatoes were tender, the cream and butter quickly boiled over and Chef ran over and turned it off. The burners we're using are a LOT hotter than the burners I'm used to at home. I felt a bit stupid, a bit studenty -- I will not turn my back on a high-flamed pot again.

The birds were seasoned simply with salt and olive oil, and the skin got a little crispy. Since it was still on the bone, the flesh was cooked but still moist. The duck was a little tougher, and a had a stronger, gamier flavor.

There was a young woman auditing the class today. A few fellow students and I chatted with her during the class, and shared the roast birds and mashed potatoes. I audited a couple of schools myself before making a choice, and when I got in there and spoke to the professors at each, they all said basically the same thing -- either school will give you a fine culinary education, it's what you put in that'll determine what you get out. At the end of class, I slipped her a note with the address of this blog and whispered, "Check this out, it's a secret here!"

ADDENDA:
Foodcandy featured CSC on their front page! Hi! Please feel free to post to comments with questions or, uh, your comments.

The food today in class was tasty, but not the healthiest. Nothing was organic, the potatoes were nutritionally void, and did I mention there were no vegetables? I balanced it a bit later with a nice falafel platter and some baby carrots, but still. I guess if I'm going to be uptight about it, I should of gone here for school.

BREAKFAST: 6:30am, small bowl of good yogurt with vanilla, raw cashews and local honey, organic banana, .75 bowl, hunger 2/5

AM SNACK: 11am, small piece of french bread, hunger 4/5
Just so hungry!

LUNCH #1: 11:30am, roast chicken breast, roast duck breast, country style mashed potatoes, 2 bowls, hunger 4/5

LUNCH #2: 4pm, falafel platter, water, 2 bowls, hunger 4/5

DINNER: 7pm, baby carrots, small piece of raw-milk talegio, 1 piece superhippy bread with the good butter, quart of water, 1 bowl, hunger 4/5
Could of eaten more, but just too tired. Got to bed at 9pm.